Reface your cabinets

September 28th, 2008

Changing the style of your cabinets does not mean you need to remove the ones you’ve got and start anew. There are ways you can add a more modern look to your kitchen without the work and cost of drastic measures. A simple solution (and relatively inexpensive) to your outdated kitchen look is to reface your cabinets.

Cabinet refacing involves replacing the parts that get the most use and attention, such as the doors, handles and hinges. If done efficiently, such alterations can be completed over a weekend.

The doors in your kitchen often take a lot of abuse. Therefore they should not only be eye-catching but also convenient and sturdy.

The choices are simple when it comes to doors: replace them completely, refinish your existing doors or do a combination of both.

A good paint job could provide the change you’re looking for.

If your kitchen cabinet doors are flat paneled, another option would be to add a veneer. Veneer layers can be glued over the surface of your existing finish to give your cabinet doors a brand new look and style.

Well-made hinges and handles can be purchased both online and in brick and mortar shops in an wide array of styles and finishes. Prices also vary quite a bit so its recommended that you shop around.

5 Simple Tips For the Ultimate Kitchen Cabinet Paint Job

September 20th, 2008
  1. Avoid taking breaks in the middle of painting cabinet units, doors or drawers. If you do, you may get an ugly dark seam at the point where you stopped.
  2. Be sure to set aside enough time to avoid stress, the project can take a while.
  3. Don’t skip out on cleaning your kitchen cabinets. If you do, the paint won’t stick well and you’re paint finish will look less than beautiful that it could.
  4. Use a liquid deglosser instead of sandpaper. It is much easier and takes far less time.
  5. When painting kitchen cabinet doors, avoid turning them over before the one side is completely dry.  If you rush things you could end up with ruined finish.

Things to Look For

September 19th, 2008

As you browse stores that specialize in kitchen design, check out the displays. Open and close doors and drawers to ensure they open smoothly and quietly. Run your hand over the wood surface - make sure its smooth. High quality custom made cabinets should have solid frames, doors and drawer fronts. Do not purchase cupboards with no backs.

Be sure that all corners are reinforced for sturdy durability.

Take a look at the frames of the doors. Frameless doors best compliments contemporary kitchens. The frame is hidden by the door and allows for fuller access to the interior of the cupboard. Doors with frames have a traditional look that blends well with classic styles.

Wood Types for Cabinets

September 18th, 2008

What type of wood you choose depends on your own tastes, the style of your kitchen, and your home furnishings. Today’s truly custom cabinetry can be made of any fine wood depending on that wood’s availability and your price range.

The most common choices for custom cabinets are:

Maple (moderate price) - There are more than 10 types of maple in the North and Northwest.
Most maple used commercially comes from one of 5 species. The most common
is the soft maples. Rock Maple is denser and stronger.  Certain Rock Maple logs are selected and peeled to create the beautiful “birds-eye” figure.  Maple finishes very well.

Cherry (moderate) - Sapwood is pinkish in color while the heartwood is a pinkish brown which
will grow to red-brown over time and exposure to sunlight. It is typically straight grained, is moderately dense and strong, and takes finishing very well.

Hickory (Moderate) - Sapwood is light colored, the heartwood is reddish-brown, it is dense
strong wood, typically straight grained and takes stains well.

Oak (Moderate) - There are 200 different species of Oak. The most common has light colored
sapwood with tan or yellowish brown heartwood. Oak can be straight grained but can
often be irregular or cross-grained. When quarter sawn it presents a silvery figure. It is
quite dense and strong and takes stain well.

Pine (Moderate) - Pine is either white, yellow or ponderosa. White pine is white to straw
colored, not very dense, straight grained and takes stain and paint well. Yellow pine is
very similar in characteristics to white pine. Ponderosa pine has yellowish sapwood while
heartwood is orange to reddish with very prominent resin duct lines. It needs special
attention and surface preparation to take stain and paint well.

Paint Grade (low-end) - Typically Birch, Poplar, Maple or Sycamore.

Exotics (Meaning rare and/or pricey)

Mahogany (high-end) - Most mahogany comes from the rain forests of the
western coast of Africa. The wood is reddish-brown and the grain is typically interlocked
but can be straight. It is a medium density wood, though not very strong. It takes stain and
polishing very well.

Walnut (high-end) - There are many species of walnut being found
across North America into South America. The heartwood is dark brown and gets darker
with age. It is relatively straight grained but can be wavy. It is a medium density wood
but strong. It takes finishing very well. European Walnut is similar in characteristics
except that the wood is more gray-brown with a pronounced wavy grain.

Ebony (high-end) - Ebony is a generic name for wood species with very dark or black
heartwood. African and Indian ebony are most common. Ebony is typically straight
grained but can be curly, wavy or irregular. It is very dense and strong yet also brittle.
Ebony is at its most beautiful polished to a high luster.